Jerez de la Frontera - the Moorish meets the moreish

With Andalusia firmly in sight, I set off from a base in Quarteira and headed for Jerez de la Frontera.

After spending a couple of weeks around an inordinately soggy and extremely windy Algarve (thanks to Storm Laurence), my attention focused on Andalusia.

Festival

I'd happened upon Jerez a couple of times previously. The first time (by some complete fluke) was during the Feria del Caballo (Jerez's world-renowned horse fair). Unsurprisingly, this is a week-long festival centered around the city’s equestrian traditions and legendary horsemanship prowess.

However, I discovered that the festivities aren't all about magnificently turned out horses and the amazing equestrian skills which have long been associated with Jerez’s Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. The week-long fair is as much about the people of Jerez as it is about the horses. It's about dressing up in traditional Spanish attire, it's about families, community, friends, traditional flamenco, good food, good wine, locally produced sherry served at the city's fabulous tabernas alongside a selection of regional specialty cheeses. There's also traditional music, merriment & mirth. But much more importantly, we're all invited along to see just what marvels this remarkable city has to offer. And, as I'm sure you can tell by my somewhat unbridled enthusiasm, there’s quite a lot.

On my first ever visit to Jerez, just a few years ago, I arrived at Parque Gonzáles Hontoria with thermometers nudging 38C. The lunchtime parties were well and truly underway by the time I arrived. And boy, did I feel under-dressed! Gentlemen were splendidly turned out in their traditional Cordoba Suits (also known as “camperos”), which I've often seen displayed in shop windows as I browse my way through some of Sevilla’s labyrinth of narrow streets.

As for the ladies? Well, whether they were young at heart or anything in between, they were all absolutely stunning. Their array of colourful dresses, flowers, natural beauty and fragrance simply turned Jerez into a veritable carnival of experiences that excited every single sense. The ladies were undoubtedly the stars of the show! Their dazzling efforts and Spanish flair made the whole event seem quite surreal.

There was another aspect of the festival that amused me endlessly: The mini-me’s. Yes, even the kids were all dressed up in traditional regalia, all proudly posing for tourist photographs. It was such a happy and convivial atmosphere which added up to make Jerez’s Feria del Caballos one of the most magical festivals that I've ever had the privilege of attending.

For me, it was all the more extraordinary because I'd happened upon it purely by chance. An unexpected treat that made for a truly unforgettable experience.

Whether you are an ardent equestrian or not, the horse festival has something to amuse everyone. The 2025 fair takes place from the 17th of May to the 25th.

However, the weekend I most recently spent in Jerez was unusually soggy. A far cry from that sizzling 38C heat that I first experienced at Jerez. Sadly, my last visit came complete with stormy gusts of wind which howled through the city’s narrow streets. Trees buckled and strained as named storm “Laurence” ferociously roared its way over much of southern Spain with an intensity I've seldom experienced in all my years of traversing Spain and Portugal. Even the vast expanses of normally dry, albeit irrigated agricultural land that lies between Seville and Cádiz had taken on the appearance of paddy fields with huge swathes looking more like muddy lakes.

Dreary

Undeterred, I arrived in a very grey and dreary-looking Jerez; a completely different scene compared with that first visit. This time, with the thermometer struggling to top 14C, it genuinely felt cold in all that wind and rain.

Finding my hotel in the pouring rain reminded me of an Autumnal day in Keswick. In this rare Andalusian gloom, Jerez looked as drab and grey as anywhere else might do when rain stops play. There was hardly a soul to be seen and those who had ventured out were huddled beneath brollies or wrapped up in winter raincoats, looking decidedly windswept. I had to pinch myself as a reminder that I was actually in Spain.

Bedraggled and feeling a bit sorry for myself, I soon settled into a very comfortable hotel room in the heart of old town Jerez, a mere three minutes walk away from the Cathedral. After spending several hours on the road driving from the Algarve, I decided that when in Spain, I'd do as the Spanish do. Siesta time. It wasn't to while away hours of glaring midday Spanish sunshine but, moreover, to shelter from the relentless thundery showers and chilly winds so seldom associated with this part of the world.

Despite the unusually inclement weather conditions, there was one aspect of life in Jerez that definitely shone through. I know it might sound like a bit of a cliché but this time I really must mention the inordinately friendly nature of local people. Even during the busy horse fair, I recall being invited to share food and drink at numerous private gatherings, something which I thought was exceptionally kind. I remember being quizzed about where I'd come from and being shown around the fair by people who were genuinely keen to show off local culture and heritage.

This time, because there was a distinct lack of tourists about town, the locals had even more time to invest in the precious few tourists which had shown up despite the rough weather. I really enjoyed joining in with local folk, lapping up the banter and the local culture. Despite my limited grasp of the Spanish language, it was still enormous fun.

That evening, I visited numerous artisan cervejarias as I mooched through the ancient streets of Jerez, “sheltering” between the many rain showers. It’s actually astonishing how many local beers Jerez has to offer - so it's not all about sherry. I settled in Cerveceria Gorilla, located on the corner of Plaza Plateros. Local brews can be quite potent, so I suspect that too many could easily render even the largest beer-swilling “gorilla” somewhat legless.

Moorish

Trouble is, it's too damned moreish! Jerez boasts its Moorish Alcázar as well as its moreish beverages. A hugely agreeable combination, me-thinks.

To find a good eatery, just ask the locals, which is precisely what I did. I was directed to the fabulous Bar Las Banderillas. This is a bustling tapas bar packed with locals and tourists alike. I opted for Gambas al Ajillo (large prawns infused in olive oil, garlic, chilli and black pepper) served with locally made bread. I also had a small plate of lamb's kidneys cooked in a rich, dark gravy made with sherry, shallots and herbs - topped with some crispy fried potatoes.

My tapas was accompanied by lots of different sherries, recommended by the waiter.

So yes, Jerez is Moorish & moreish all in one!

I arrived back in Portugal just in time to welcome in Storm Martinho.

Nice!

Douglas Hughes is a UK-based writer producing general interest articles ranging from travel pieces to classic motoring. 

Douglas Hughes